The fabled Koh-i-Noor diamond Koh-i-Noor, Persian for "Mountain of Light" is one of the world's most famous diamonds. Oddly, though, it is neither the largest or the finest. There are differing stories about the origins of the stone. One Indian legend claims it emerged 5,000 years ago in ancient India and was first known to be in the possession of Sultan Baber, founder of the Mughal Empire. Whatever the truth, we know that the East India Company took it from India to England in 1852, where it was presented to Queen Victoria. The stone had been poorly cut in India, supposedly from its original 787 carat size, to 186 carats. Prince Albert had the stone cut again in London, so that it is now 108 carats in a shallow rose cut. Queen Victoria wore it variously in a brooch, bracelet and circlet. She was proud of her title Empress of India.

"This year's most desirable fashion accessory is a tennis bracelet...[Chris] Evert wore a similar circlet of diamonds--previously called an 'eternity bracelet' by most jewelers--while playing in a televised tournament a couple of years ago. The bracelet flew off Evert's arm and play was interrupted until it could be retrieved. Courtside broadcasters dubbed the adornment Chrissy's 'tennis bracelet'. Shortly thereafter, it was to die for among female aficionados of the game, even those with lousy one-handed backhands."

What you don't know about blue topaz Blue topaz is actually white topaz that has been irradiated, turning the stone blue, ranging from a light pure color to very dark almost electric blue.

Topaz cleaves easily, so you should avoid knocking your blue topaz stone against hard surfaces.

The biggest topaz crystal ever found, named "El Dorado", was found in Brazil in 1984. It weighs 6.2 kg and belongs to the British Royal Collection.

Blue topaz is the December birthstone.

Antique, vintage, estate... what does it all mean? According to Customs guidelines, jewelry that is at least 100 years old is antique. This comes into play when purchasing pieces overseas and bringing them back to the U.S. Antiques may enter the U.S. duty-free.

Estate has two meanings in today's world. Originally it was meant to designate a piece of jewelry that was left in someone's will. Often these are exceptionally high-quality pieces, so the term "estate" acquired a certain cachet.

However, the term has also been used increasingly in recent years simply to designate a pre-owned piece. Here, too, the usage is meant to imply quality and a certain age, neither of which may actually be true. Many people believe that old jewelry is valuable simply because it is old, but old junk jewelry can last just as long as the fine pieces. We've heard tell of jewelers who've taken new stock that isn't moving and put it in the "estate jewelry" showcase to heighten interest. Perhaps a more conservative approach would be to eschew the term "estate jewelry" entirely and describe a piece according to its period and materials.

Vintage jewelry is that which is in accordance of the design style of a certain period, be it Art Deco, Edwardian or the brightly-colored Bakelite pieces of the Forties. Sometimes sales of these pieces track popular trends or prominent stylesetters like Oprah Winfrey.

Reproduction jewelry, hopefully identified as such, is a copy done in the style of an earlier period. The savvy jewelry buyer learns to spot details that indicate the piece is a copy, such as the type of clasp on a brooch.

Fake or counterfeit jewelry is an out-and-out attempt to defraud, as opposed to reproduction jewelry, which is simply done in a certain style. Fake jewelry often carries a designer's name and may be made of inferior metals and stones. The production of counterfeit designer jewelry is at an all-time high today. Unfortunately consumers are ever-eager to lap it up, most not seeming to care that the "Tiffany" silver piece they bought online is not Tiffany and may not even be sterling silver. This attitude needs to change before real progress can be made in blocking the counterfeiters.

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Morganite, the pink emerald A light pink to rose-colored gem quality beryl, morganite is named for the famous banker J.P. Morgan, who during his lifetime amassed incredible gem and mineral collections, some of which are now on display at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. Tiffany's did the naming and the gem, though scarce, is still close to the heart of the company.

There are several different types/colors of beryl, such as the blue or blue-green aquamarine or green emerald. Only the pink variety, though, is considered morganite. The pink emerald appellation came about in the mid-1990s through the powers that be in the jewelry trade. It's true that the new terminology is more descriptive, so if you like the look of these pretty pink gems, try looking for both morganite and pink emerald.

Like many gemstones today, morganite is sometimes heat-treated or irradiated.

Recommended eBay seller Doing a good turn for humanity by offering attractive and useful medical ID bracelets is Jacqui's Jewelry Box. Metals are stainless steel, sterling silver and 14k gold-filled paired with luscious Swarovski crystal beads. Jacqui does custom engraving to your specifications.

Art Nouveau The Art Nouveau movement lasted for a few short decades (approximately 1890 through 1910), but had a lasting impact on the jewelry industry. Art Nouveau designs were the reaction to a mass produced jewelry market that had become so popular during the late Victorian era.

Unlike the strict rules that defined the Victorian era, there were minimal restrictions in the design of Nouveau jewelry. The most common motifs incorporated life forms such as orchids, lilies, irises, ferns, snakes, dragonflies, animal and human beings. Some of the ingredients that make Art Nouveau jewelry so emotionally beautiful are the use of subtle color and shading, suggestion of form, delicate turning and mystical imagery.

What is it about Art Nouveau jewelry that touches the hearts of sophisticates, critical collectors, or the average consumer?

It is the beauty that is felt when one views the great works of someone like Renoir, Servat, or Gauguin. They are imaginative pieces, daring and different from other styles and forms.

Recommended eBay seller If luxury is your game, Portero is the go-to name for top-quality designer jewels. With over 60,000 auctions under their belt in the last several years, Portero guarantees everything they sell is genuine. They have an expert on staff who can spot a fake Hermes Birkin bag 100 yards away, as well as other prodigies who specialize in jewelry, watches and art. Portero co-founder Daniel Nissanoff wrote _FutureShop_, which predicted a culture of "temporary ownership" would evolve in the luxury goods market.

Mabe, a pearl of a gem Mabe is a term that refers to a type of cultured blister pearl. A mabe pearl is grown against the shell of the oyster rather than within the flesh of the oyster like round pearls.

It attaches to the hard shell as it grows. In order to be used, it must be drilled from the shell. If there are voids on the back of the pearl, they are filled with resin. A piece of mother of pearl is then added to seal the back. Mabe pearl provide the high luster of round pearls at a much lower cost.

Mourning jewelry: Forever in my heart This is jewelry made in remembrance of someone precious who has passed away. It is usually worn on a chain or ribbon so that it hangs near the heart as a sign of devotion. In Victorian times, funerary and mourning jewelry was quite popular and was sometimes woven from or contained locks of hair from the deceased. The Queen herself was in mourning nearly fifty years.

In modern times, lockets are made containing a small amount of the cremated ashes of a loved one and may be placed on bracelets or even key chains as well as necklaces. Those wishing a very special keepsake can now have a LifeGem, a synthetic diamond made from the remains, though it is a costly process.

This is how it works: Carbon released during cremation is captured as a dark powder, then heated, which results in graphite. The graphite is sent to a lab where it is converted into fancy colored diamonds. Many diamonds can be made from carbon collected from one individual, if desired.

Not for everyone, perhaps, but something to think about.

WatchMyDiamondGrow (02/28/08) In case you missed my first two columns, I'm in quest of a significantly-sized diamond.

Last month I bought my first diamond ring!

This month, I bought another, slightly larger, completely different shaped stone. This one is a marquise shape, and even though the caretage is technically higher than the round brilliant in the first ring, the stone looks smaller. Watch this space for a picture (coming soon).

Until next time, glittery wishes and gemstone delights. Yours truly, WMDG

WatchMyDiamondGrow is the pseudonym of a gem-lovin' lady who craves rocks. Really big rocks.