abalone

Abalone are a type of marine snails found in North America, Asia, and Australia. They have large shells that are used for all sorts of jewelry from puka shell necklaces to mother of pearl pieces. The tortoise-shell shading of abalone is very appealing. Common shades are green, brown, black, and white. While abalone shells look very fragile, they are actually very hard to break, making them ideal for jewelry intended to last a long time. These stones are often paired with silver as they complement each other beautifully. Astrologically, abalone is associated with Cancer, and it is very popular with yoga practitioners, because they consider it a powerful meditation tool.

abbot's ring

Finger ring worn by abbot, usually made of gold, set with a sole gemstone and worn on the third finger of the right hand.

acrostic jewelry

Any piece of jewelry where a name or word is spelled out in the initials of the stones used. See also amatory jewelry and the language of stones.

adamant

An ancient name for a diamond, from the Greek adamas, meaning unconquerable.

adularescence

A shimmering white light, occasionally with a bluish cast, that appears in a piece of moonstone cut en cabochon.

agate

Agates are a microcrystalline quartz characterised by the fineness of grain and brightness of color. They are usually associated with volcanie rocks but can be found in other various types of rock normally metamorphic. Theophrastus, a Greek philosopher, discovered the stone along the shores of the river Achates which gives the stone it's name. This gemstone is creatively striped and often found as a round nodule with concentric bands. These bands can sometimes look like eyes or even landscapes. This stone was once valued as a talisman in ancient times and said to quench thirst or protect against fever. Some traditions believed the stone to cure stings of scorpions, soothe the mind and prevent contagion. Some Persian magicians even used the stone to divert storms. The agate stone has various types like the Mexican or Dendritic agate. They also come in a variety of colors like green, red, black, or even combinations of different colors. Today the agate stone is mostly used to make ornaments such as pins, brooches, or even inkstands. Because of the hardness of the stone it is also used to make mortars and pestles, even leather burnishing tools.

agatized coral

Fossilized coral in which part of the mass is replaced by chalcedony. The stone is cut into cabochons and occasionally dyed blue or pink.

aglet

A small ornamental object often made of precious metal, worn on the ends of ribbons to hold clothing together prior to the invention of the button.

Agnus Dei

A piece of jewelry incorporating a lamb as the emblem of Christ.

aigrette

Frequently a term for a plume of heron's or later egret feather. This is found as a common adornment in Turkey during the Ottoman Empire - and was usually a feathered plume mounted on a turban and sometimes having a jeweled setting or gemstone as a feature. Later, this would be seen as a fashion accessory of the Art Nouveau period. Although it is a simple item and thus is found in many cultures, the Western European adoption of this probably stems from an interest in Middle Eastern culture stimulated by archeological finds of the period.

aiguillette

From a French word meaning needle, a small piece of jewelry set with a series of gradually diminishing stones terminating in one thin pointed stone.

Alaska diamond

The term ‘Alaska Diamond’ is a misnomer for the colorless type of quartz known as rock crystal. Because rock crystal is cheap, easy to cut and pretty, it is often sold as imitation diamonds or simply as a precious stone. The rock crystal does not have, however, the color and fire within it to really be a precious gem, but is quite popular due to its availability and price. Rock crystal is also quite common in carvings or the ornamental type such as the fortune telling crystal ball. The gem is popular to use in various carvings, such as pyramids, bowls, wands and animals. Many people purchase quartz in its original form as this variety of quartz is naturally pretty.

Alencon diamond*

Local name for a type of smoky quartz found in France.

alexandrite

A gemstone variety of chrysoberyl that changes color depending on the light present. Russian alexandrite is green by daylight and red by incandescent light. Named for Tsar Alexander II. Genuine alexandrite is one of the most expensive gemstones on the market.

alloy

A metal composed of two or more different elements. Jewelry is often made of alloys, rather than pure metals, because doing so takes advantage of the properties of all component metals. For example, pure gold (also called 24-karat gold) is very soft and can easily be damaged. Mixing it with other metals such as copper or nickel makes it much less likely to be damaged. This is why most gold jewelry is in the 10k-18k range. Alloys of gold can also be created with different appearances; rose gold and white gold have become increasingly popular. The use of alloys gives designers a much wider range of options in designing jewelry. Alloys are created to create a metal with certain desired characteristics. For example, an alloy that most of us are very familiar with is Brass. Brass is a combination of the metals Zinc and Copper, and has both a beautiful appearance when polished and is fairly durable. It is also fairly resistant to corrosion, making it an excellent choice for outdoor uses such as the lock on your front door. In relation to the Jewelry world, a good example of alloys would be alloys that contain Gold. Gold is generally not used by itself; it is too soft. Therefore, gold is hardened by the addition of metals such as Copper, Zinc, Silver, Nickel, and Palladium. The addition of different metals to Gold changes both the physical strength of the Gold and its appearance in color as well. This is also where the “Carat” scale comes into play; the more Gold in the alloy, the higher the number of Carats. For example, 12 Carat (abbreviated as “ct”) Gold is a Gold alloy that contains fifty percent Gold.

aluminum

At one time rare and sought-after, aluminum made lightweight yet strong jewelry. Demand (and thus usage) for decoration dropped after cost-effective means of refining aluminum were invented.

amatory jewelry

Pieces meant to convey friendship or love by explicitly spelling out a message or using a code such as the language of stones.

Amazon jade*

Nickname for green Amazonstone, which slightly resembles jade.

ambergris

A solid, waxy substance with a dull grey or blackish color produced by the intestines of sperm whales. Prized for its fragrance, from the Renaissance to the eighteenth century it was molded into brooches and beads. It is often replaced by synthetic materials in contemporary jewelry-making, but it is still legal to purchase in the United States as it is naturally excreted by whales.

ambroid

A substance formed by heating and fusing together small fragments of amber under intense pressure. Ambroid is often used to make inexpensive jewelry.

American brilliant cut*

A variation on the brilliant cut of a diamond; see ideal cut.

amethyst

An opaque to transparent quartz in all shades of purple. The most valuable color is a rich dark purple with a hint of blue flash, but another variety that is gaining popularity is a light pinkish purple known as "Rose de France" amethyst. Like all varieties of quartz, amethyst is a durable material suitable for most jewelry designs. Amethyst is one of the more affordable gemstones, and high quality material can be found for very reasonable prices. However, there is an increasing amount of synthetic material entering the market at this time. The birthstone for February, amethyst has also been reputed as a stone which can prevent drunkenness.

ammolite

You know all about amber and pearls, the best-known gemstones created from living organisms. Ammolite is the third organic gem and the hardest to find.

It is found primarily along the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains of the United States and Canada. It is made of the fossilized shells of ammonites, which are prehistoric squid-like creatures. In 1981, ammolite was officially designated a gemstone by the World Jewellery Confederation.

Jewelry-quality ammolite may be a very thin layer, less than 1 mm, and not often mined without its accompanying layer of chalk or shale matrix.

Ammolite is usually worked into cabochon shapes and mounted in gold, with diamonds as accents. Because it is fragile, ammolite is best reserved for use in pendants, earrings, and brooches; if used as a ring stone, ammolite should be given a hard protective cap, namely one of synthetic spinel as used in triplets. Small whole polished ammonites were historically mounted in gold, silver or jet as brooches starting around 1850. Use mild soap and warm water to clean ammolite jewelry and avoid ultrasonic cleaners.

amulet

A jewelry item or gemstone believed to have supernatural powers and the ability to fend off evil or, conversely, attract good fortune. The word amulet comes from the Latin word amoletum, which is thought to further descend from the Arab word himlat, which means “something carried.” Amulets have been a large part of many people’s religious faiths since before recorded history. For example, Hebrew amulets often have some variation of the tetragrammeton (God’s Name) as a source of protection and power. Amulets are often worn as charms, and carry a similar meaning for the wearer.

amulet box

Also known as a prayer box, small covered container with a cord to be worn around the neck.

anchor

A type of jewelry chain that mimics the chain that holds large anchors on ships. An oval link with a dividing bar through the middle. Also called Marina.

andradite

A type of garnet that is found in colors green (demantoid), black (melanite) and yellow (topazolite).

ankh

From an Egyptian hieroglyphic that means "life". Throughout history the symbol appears, often associated with the goddess Isis. Ankhs were inscribed on the tombs of wealthy pharaohs in ancient times. The symbol became newly popular around the turn of the 19th century, when occultism in Europe spurred an interest in ancient religions. The ankh has been believed to bestow power and prosperity on the wearer, which has made it a popular symbol in jewelry, particularly in pendants and rings.

aurora borealis*

A type of artificial gemstone (crystal) invented and popularized by Swarovski in the 1950s. The technique involves applying thin layers of metal to glass to achieve a rainbow iridized effect.

baguette*

Small rectangular faceted stone often used as an accent or sidelight.

bandeau*

Head ornament in the form of a slender band encircling the forehead. Fashionable in France and England in the 1840s, then again in the 1920s.

bead

A small object drilled to accommodate stringing. Beads are available in a variety of materials, such as glass, plastic and stone. One of the oldest developments in jewelry design, beads encompass a wide range of sizes and shapes. They are often seen as a more affordable type of jewelry, but beads can be found at every price point, from the most inexpensive plastic pieces to rubies, sapphires and near-flawless diamonds. Beads may be incorporated into a design in a variety of ways. Small glass beads called "seed" beads are often woven into elaborate patterns. Gemstone beads may be strung on silk, nylon or flexible composite wire materials. Beads are also used extensively with metal wire to form jewelry beyond the traditional bead necklace.

Berlin iron*

Cast iron ornaments made in the early 1800s in patriotic motifs, often given to women in exchange for their gold jewelry (which was needed to fund a war effort).

bezel setting

An early method of setting gemstones into jewelry. The bezel is simply a band of metal which is shaped into the size and shape of the gem and then soldered into place on the metal of the jewelry. The stone is inserted into the bezel and the metal is pressed down over the edges of the stone, which locks it into place.

blackamoor*

A dark-skinned figure, usually only a head and shoulders view in jewelry use, often wearing a turban. Often decorated in bright colors or jewelled. The term blackamoor has Greek or Phoenician origins.

bloodstone

a dark green stone of chalcedony, a crypto crystalline silica or quartz, with bright red spots of jasper throughout. When polished, the red spots give it the resemblance of drops of blood. The stone was widely venerated in medieval times because its spots were thought to be the blood of Jesus Christ, hence its use in religious sculptures of the crucifixion and flagellation. In folk-law medicine it was thought to help in stopping nosebleeds and other hemorrhaging by holding the stone to the head or the affected part of the body. It is a birthstone for March and is mined mainly in India.

blue topaz

Blue topaz is actually white topaz that has been irradiated, turning the stone blue, ranging from a light pure color to very dark almost electric blue. Topaz cleaves easily, so you should avoid knocking your blue topaz stone against hard surfaces. The biggest topaz crystal ever found, named "El Dorado", was found in Brazil in 1984. It weighs 6.2 kg and belongs to the British Royal Collection. Blue topaz is the December birthstone.

bog oak*

Hardened and blackened wood from peat bogs. Carved and pressed into Irish souvenir jewelry.

brilliant cut

A 58-facet shaping of diamonds first invented by a Venetian diamond cutter.

briolette

A charming flat cut of gemstones. Usually in a triangular, teardrop shape with triangular facets. The term is thought be be derived from the French word for dried plum (after its shape) brignole and its diminutive - brignolette. This cut has been found in gems of the Roman period and in India - where it is frequently a feature of clothing and turbans. The name Briolette was also applied to a 90+ carat diamond which might be one of the very earliest cut stones.

Bristol diamond

Rock crystal or clear quartz found in a limestone deposit near Bristol. Diamond imitator.

brooch

A brooch is a piece of jewellery attached to the wearer's clothing by a pin, which is usually part of the brooch itself. Brooches can be purely decorative, or used to secure or fasten cloaks, scarves and wraps. The earliest form of brooches were Bronze Age fibulae, ornamental clasps made of metal or bone. Today, brooches range from elaborately jewelled shapes to round, plastic 'badges' which often contain political statements or jokes, and are often worn as a sign of group affiliation. Brooches are typically worn close to the neck, centred or to one side of the wearer's shirt. Like necklaces, brooches can be lockets—hollowed boxes which contain photographs or a lock of hair.

Byzantine

An artistic style dating from the Byzantine Empire of the Middle Ages, developed by Greek-speaking artisans of the Roman Empire, and typically intricate, ornate, gilt, solemn, religious in nature, or inspired by classical Greek mythology. Byzantine jewelry chains are connected in a weave that is also sometimes referred to as a birdcage, idiot box, or fool's dilemma pattern. Two pairs of metal loops are linked together with another pair of metal loops, and then folded back to take additional link connections. This pattern is repeated and continued to form a beautiful old world chain reminiscent of medieval chain mail.

cabochon

A gemstone, usually opaque, which has been shaped and polished into a domed shape with a flat bottom. Softer gemstones are often made into cabochons.

cairngorm*

A variety of quartz crystal found in the Cairngorm Mountains of Scotland, used in Scottish jewelry.

cameo

A method of carving or an item of jewelry made in this manner. It features a raised (positive) relief image as opposed to intaglio, which has a negative image. Cameos are generally made from agate or shell, though other materials are sometimes used.

cannetille

A method of working gold in which the surface of the object is covered in wire spirals.

Celtic cross

A traditional symbol of pre-Christian origin that combines a Christian-type cross with a circle centered over the intersection.

champleve

A technique where enamel is filled into depressions or cells of a metal object. The object is then heated until the enamel melts, then polished once cooled. Similar but not identical to cloisonne.

chaplet

Another word for coronet.

charm bracelet

An item of jewelry worn on the wrist. Carrying charms in this manner may have originated as a kind of amulet to ward off evil spirits or bad luck.

chatelaine

A set of short chains on a belt worn by women and men for carrying keys and useful implements. The French word chatelaine means the wife of the lord of a castle.

chatoyancy

A gemstone phenomenon that looks like the slitted eye of a cat. The term comes from the French "chat", meaning "cat", and "oeil", meaning "eye". Chatoyancy occurs when visible fibers or needles within a stone are aligned parallel to one another, and this effect is optimized by forming the stone into a cabochon. The most well-known example of a chatoyant gemstone is chrysoberyl cat's eye, but many other stones can display this phenomenon as well. Chatoyancy is found in many types of quartz, beryl and tourmaline, and is even found rarely in spinel, ruby and sapphire. There is also a type of fiber optic glass available which is referred to as "cat's eye" and displays a similar effect.

cire perdue*

Lost wax casting, an ages-old technique still used today to create artistic jewelry and sculpture.

cloisonne

Both a process and a type of jewelry created by filling metal partitions with a melted colored glass mixture.

coronet

A small crown-like headpiece consisting of ornaments fixed on a rigid metal ring. Crowns are usually reserved for royalty; coronets are worn by nobles.

costume jewelry

Jewelry which is made with imitation jewels. The most popular jewel imitation is made with cubic zirconia to resemble diamonds. When costume jewelry is made well, particularly with cubic zirconia, one would not be able to tell the difference between a "real" diamond and an imitation diamond. Cubic zirconia will still "cut glass" because it is man-made and is durable. Smart crafters could also make them to the same grade as diamonds where they have different colors just like real diamonds. Another name for "costume jewelry" is "fine jewelry". Believe it or not, costume jewelry could cost as much as real jewelry.

cut steel*

Faceted steel studs closely arranged to maximize sparkle. Such ornaments were common in England in the second half of the 18th century.

danburite

This is not a well-known mineral, but is becoming a more popular choice, especially among collectors who like transparent crystal clusters. Danburite is a silicate crystal with a hardness of about 7 and a vitreous luster. It is usually colorless, but also found in yellow, brown or pink, similar to topaz or yellow quartz. Generally found as prismatic crystals with diamond-shaped cross-sections. Named after the original discovery of the gem in Danbury, Connecticut in 1893. The gem is also found in Mexico, Bolivia, Russia, Germany, and Japan. The largest deposits are found in Mexico. Some claim danburite activates the crown chakra and cultivates spiritual awareness..

Darya-i-Nur

This is one of the oldest gems known to man and is the most celebrated of Iran's Crown Jewels. It is very pale pink in color, has exceptional limpidity and is completely pure. It is considered the largest known pink diamond. It is listed as weighing 186 carats but this is only an approximate weight since it was set into an ornate frame in the mid to late 1800s and to remove it now and weigh it would probably destroy the diamond. It is said to have Fath Ali Shah's name engraved on one side of it. Depending on the translation it's name is said to mean Sea of Light or River of Light or Ocean of Light.

demantoid

Demantoid is a garnet that ranges from intense, bright green to paler shades of yellow-green. Demantoid is a soft gem; care should be taken when wearing demantoid to prevent damage to the stones. As with diamonds, clarity and cut are factors to take into consideration when choosing a piece of demantoid jewelry, though the intensity of the fire, or shade, is a matter of personal taste. There may be needle inclusions, called horsetails, found in demantoid. The most common size for demantoid use in jewelry is under 1 carats, though some stones in the 2 carat range are also used in jewelry settings.

devotional jewelry

Devotional jewelry is a type of jewelry usually associated with a religion, in particular Christianity. One of the most common items is a cross or crucifix, a pendant made in the shape of a cross. These can vary both in what they are made out of and in the way they are decorated. Simple jewelry may be just a silver, gold or platinum cross, with little additional decoration. Devotional jewelry can suit everyone’s taste as it can be simple as already outlined, or it can be very ornate, with gemstones inlaid into the jewelry and can match everyone’s preferences for color.

diadem

A circular or half-circular crown. The circular version is worn on the head, while the half-circular type -- also referred to as a tiara -- is worn on the forehead. The diadem has been seen as a symbol of royalty since ancient times, and originated from ribbons and wreaths which were worn on the head. Ornate examples can be found from thousands of years ago, though these did not incorporate gems until the fourth century. A more modern diadem is generally produced in a silver or gold metal and includes primarily clear stones. These diadems are often worn for formal occasions such as weddings.

dog collar

More commonly known in French as the collier de chien. The dog collar is the ornamented band or necklace meant to be worn tightly as the canine name implies. Although the name may relate the to item worn on dogs for fashion statements, dog collars have been known for their style and sophistication on human counterparts. Oftentimes dog collars have been the center of attention as jewelry accessories because of the wide variety of leather, studded, diamond, spiked, engraved, and sparkly styles that can be worn for any occasion. Dog collars are usually more popular with young females, but are also popular with college and high school males.

equipage

Early name for chatelaine.

estate jewelry

Commonly used to refer to any previously owned piece of whatever age but can also refer to vintage jewelry of a particular period.

etui

A small case that attaches to a chatelaine and was used by women to carry small tools. The etui was also known as a necessaire because it was designed to hold items considered "necessary", like a small pair of scissors, sewing needles, pencils, or a basic manicure set. An etui is generally a cylindrical case, and they were made in a range of styles, from plain and simple to elaborately cast or engraved detailing. They were made in a variety of materials, including sterling silver and gilded copper. The etui first came into use in the 1720's, and although they are no longer worn commonly, modern sewing needle cases can be found in a similar shape and may even share the same name.

ferronniere

A single jewel worn on a ribbon or a delicate chain or thin metal circlet across the forehead. It is said to have derived its name from the ornamental jewel worn in the painting 'La Belle Ferronniere' by Leonardo da Vinci and painted in 1495. There are times when a circle of smaller jewels is worn with a larger jewel suspended from the center and it is mistakenly called a ferronniere; this is in reality a carcanet. A true ferronniere has but one jewel suspended in the center of the forehead.

fibula

An ornamental clasp used by Romans, Greeks and also by Celts and migratory tribes in Europe from the Early Bronze Age. Used to hold clothing together, they looked a bit like a large safety pin.

figaro

A style of chain featuring alternating short and long open curb links. Most Figaro chains feature a pattern of one elongated oval link followed by three shorter oval or circular links. Although these chains are available in all sizes, this style is commonly associated with men's jewelry due to its bold, classical simplicity. Figaro chains are often worn alone, but may also be worn with pendants. Thinner Figaro chains are sometimes used in bracelets or anklets for women. This chain style originated in Italy, and is said to have been named in tribute to the opera "The Marriage of Figaro".

finger armor ring

A piece of jewelry worn on the finger. It covers the part of the finger from the base to just below the nail or middle of the second joint. It has a hinge so the finger can be bent. Similar in appearance to a finger section of a medieval gauntlet. Believed to have originated in the Renaissance.

fleur-de-lis

A stylized design based on the iris or lily flower which has been used throughout the centuries. The three petals are invariable shown with the central petal upright, and the other two curving away from it left and right. The symbol can be found in art of the earliest times as an early emblem of purity. This association with purity led it to being adopted as a symbol in heraldry where the three petals were identified as representing faith, wisdom and chivalry. It was incorporated into the heraldry of the French and Spanish monarchies, but has since become more particularly associated with France.

fruit salad

Costume jewelry that is set with molded stones, which can be glass, lucite or plastic. Material may be transparent or translucent. Sought after by some vintage jewelry collectors.

funerary locket

This is jewelry made in remembrance of someone precious who has passed away. It is usually worn on a chain or ribbon so that it hangs near the heart as a sign of devotion. In the Victorian times, funerary and mourning jewelry was quite popular and was sometimes woven from or contained locks of hair from the deceased. In modern times, lockets are made containing a small amount of the cremated ashes of a loved one and may be placed on bracelets or even key chains as well as necklaces. The most innovative time would contain a synthetic diamond made from the remains, a costly process. The carbon in the human body is compressed into a diamond and will last virtually forever.

giardinetti ring*

A setting fashioned to look like a tiny basket of flowers with petals picked out in gemstones. Popular around 1750.

gimmel

A gimmel ring is actually made up two or more of separate interlocking rings, that when fitted together form one solid ring. They are traditional tokens of love. Some are given in one completed piece, while some traditionally are given separately by occasion (i.e. promise, engagement and wedding ring). Gimmel rings are available in many different styles, both new and vintage. 15th century gimmel rings are known as "puzzle" rings. Today gimmel rings are available in many styles, such as the Irish "claddagh", wedding style "infinity", and more. Gimmel rings can be made from any quality metal, from sterling silver to platinum. They make unique and interesting "promise" or wedding rings.

girandole

A style of earring and brooch that resembles the shape of a chandelier. The girandole earring was first introduced around 1660 and became the most popular earring design in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The design of the girandole earring centered on a primary large circular gemstone which was usually a diamond. From the central gemstone dangled 3 matching pear shaped gemstones or similar motifs. Girandole earrings were large sized and heavy in weight because of the metal content, usually gold or silver, and the number of gems which often resulted in elongated ear lobes for the wearer. This style of earring fell out of favor in the 1840s when it became fashionable to wear hair parted down the middle and covering the ears.

gold-filled

A solid layer of gold bonded to a base metal like brass. The minimum layer of karat gold in a gold-filled must equal at least 1/20 the weight of the total item. 1/20 12kt GF is the most common stamp you will find on gold-filled jewelry.

hair jewelry

A style of jewelry popularized during the Victorian period, generally featuring human hair. This jewelry includes simple styles, such as a single lock of hair behind glass, as well as very ornate examples incorporating multiple colors of hair braided into elaborate patterns. Some pieces have a "painted" effect due to the use of several hair colors in a more flat design. Women often made these pieces of jewelry to exchange with their lovers, but hair were also extensively used in mourning jewelry as a remembrance. During the British colonial period, elephant hair was also highly valued in jewelry among connoisseurs of the exotic.

hallmark

Should not be confused with a manufacturer's mark, which often denotes purity such as 14k or 750 and which may or may not be truthful. An official mark on series of marks struck into any object made of silver, gold, or other precious metal. The hallmark indicates the purity of the mteal. It is separate from any marks used to signify the manufacturer of the piece. The first hallmarks date back to the Byzantine Empire, and hallmarks were common in Europe by the late Middle Ages. The Vienna Convention, signed in 1973 by most of the nations of Europe, established a series of common hallmarks meant to show certain levels of purity in metal objects assayed within those countries. The Vienna Convention marks are now used by many other countries worldwide. Traditionally, hallmarks are punched into the metal. In recent years, laser etching has been used to place hallmarks in more delicate items.

herringbone

Nowadays dubbed magic chain, it is formed from v-shaped links and lies entirely flat.

HGE

Heavy gold electroplate. A very thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal. Also called HGP. HGE items have so little actual real gold in them that they are properly considered costume or fashion jewelry.

higa*

An amulet in the form of a hand with thumb sticking out between index and third fingers in an insult gesture.

intaglio

A method of carving that produces negative relief (an image that recedes rather than stands out). The opposite of cameo carving.

Italian charm bracelet

An expandable bracelet made up of embellished modular rectangular links. The links are most often stainless steel with 18K gold detailing, and may also include enamel work or gemstones. There are even charms which can be personalized with your own photos. In addition to charms, a watch face can also be incorporated for additional versatility. The first Italian charm bracelets were designed by the Zoppini company, and have spawned countless imitations of lower quality. These can be identified by their use of gold plating and imitation gemstones, and generally will not include any hallmarks on the back of the charm.

jet

A bituminous coal occasionally used in jewelry. Jet was especially popular during the Victorian period, when it was often faceted and used in mourning jewelry. Elaborate strands of faceted jet beads were particularly sought after. Much of what is said to be antique jet jewelry is actually faceted glass, particularly what is referred to as "French jet". Genuine jet is sensitive to heating, and older pieces may exhibit wear on the facets due to the softness of the stone. More recently, jet has been valued as an organic material, and modern pieces are often fashioned into beads or carved.

keeper ring

Ornaments which are made up of rare earth metals are gaining popularity among women. The craze for jewelry is increasing and so do the efforts to protect these precious ornaments. Married women concentrate more on keeping their wedding rings safely from any damage or loss. A special ornament has been designed to keep the wedding rings safe. This is called a keeper ringer, which keeps the rings safe, as the name says. The keeper rings are made of different materials which protect the wedding rings from any external damage. To make this ornament look even more beautiful, they're studded with diamonds. The keeper rings have specially polished surfaces which can withstand scratches and damages. Thus, the wedding ring is safeguarded and the keeper ring also remains brand new for longer period of time.

keepsake locket

A specialized pendant with a thin pane of glass at front to display the contents, such as a dried flower or lock of hair, without having to open the locket.

Koh-i-Noor

Koh-i-Noor, Persian for "Mountain of Light" is one of the world's most famous diamonds. Oddly, though, it is neither the largest or the finest. There are differing stories about the origins of the stone. One Indian legend claims it emerged 5,000 years ago in ancient India and was first known to be in the possession of Sultan Baber, founder of the Mughal Empire. Whatever the truth, we know that the East India Company took it from India to England in 1852, where it was presented to Queen Victoria. The stone had been poorly cut in India, supposedly from its original 787 carat size, to 186 carats. Prince Albert had the stone cut again in London, so that it is now 108 carats in a shallow rose cut. Queen Victoria wore it variously in a brooch, bracelet and circlet. She was proud of her title Empress of India.

The stone has never been worn by a British king. You see, like the Hope Diamond, the Koh-i-Noor has ever brought tragedy to its male owners. A superstition arose that if the Koh-i-Noor was ever worn by a king the British would lose India. On a more practical note, the huge diamond is not actually a royal jewel, as it was a personal gift to Queen Victoria, who on her death bequeathed it to Queen Alexandra in entail for Queens Consort to come. (The Duchess of Cornwall, the former Camilla Parker Bowles, will not be a Queen Consort even if the Prince of Wales succeeds to the throne. So she will not wear the Koh-i-Noor.)

The diamond is currently set in the crown made for the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother. She wore it at her coronation in 1937.

There is some controversy about possibly returning the stone to India, as it could be considered a national treasure.

language of stones

The first letter of the stone is used to spell out a message, such as REGARD (ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby, diamond).

limonite

A brownish ironstone that is sometimes found as an inclusion in turquoise or comprises the matrix in which turquoise is embedded. See matrix.

Luckenbooth brooch*

Traditional Scottish token of love from the 16th to 18th century, with a heart or hearts topped by a crown. Often made in silver.

lunette

A half-moon shape. In the plural, it refers to eyeglasses.

mabe

Mabe is a term that refers to a type of cultured blister pearl. A mabe pearl is grown against the shell of the oyster rather than within the flesh of the oyster like round pearls. It attaches to the hard shell as it grows. In order to be used, it must be drilled from the shell. If there are voids on the back of the pearl, they are filled with resin. A piece of mother of pearl is then added to seal the back. Mabe pearl provide the high luster of round pearls at a much lower cost.

malachite

Malachite is a green stone which is sometimes opaque or semi opaque, often with stripes that are generally curved according to the outer surface of the stone. A carbonate of copper, it has been melted down for metal as well as used for ornaments and jewelery since the bronze age. This stone was named in the 14th century after the Greek word “malakhe”, meaning “mallow”, which is a plant similar in color. Valued highly in Eastern Europe this stone was very popular as a decorative stone used in veneered form on tables and boxes. Currently Egypt is the largest producer of this product, with some of the finest stones originating there.

Mallorcan (Majorcan) pearl

A trade name for a type of imitation pearl made on the island of Mallorca (Majorca) in the Balearic Islands, Spain.

Maltese Cross

A cross having four equidistant arms that flare and then terminate indented. As a result, it has eight points. The Maltese cross is often used as a symbol of military insignia the world over including this stems from its namesake the Knights of St John who later became the Knights of Malta. The Maltese cross has many variants including the Cross Formée, Cross Pattée and the Pattée Formée the different forms of the cross have been adapted into insignia for organisations as disparate as the Nazi German 'Iron Cross' and the Fire Service in the USA. Visually the Maltese cross most closely resembles a cross composed of four arrowheads with their tips pointing towards the centre. In modern times the Maltese cross has come to adorn many items including clothing and jewelry.

marcasites

Iron pyrite crystals which came into common use in jewelry in the 18th century. Iron pyrite is a soft, somewhat brittle material.

marquise

Type of gemstone cut named after the Marquise de Pompadour, a well known courtesan and the famous mistress of King Louis XV of France. This type of gemstone cut yields a elongated pointed oval, often used for diamonds. With a point at each end, it has the effect of making the wearer's finger look longer and more slender. Also known as the navette cut, it is used with many gemstones such as topaz, emerald, opal, or ruby.

Mary's brooch

Also known as Queen Mary's brooch, this is a variation of the Luckenbooth with two hearts entwined to resemble an M. Mary Queen of Scots received one as a gift from her husband Lord Darnley.

matrix

The natural rock or material in which crystal or gemstone is embedded. Sometimes the matrix is included with the stone to provide added strength.

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Zierscheibe

German for "ornamental disk". Iron pendants worn by women as early as 800 B.C. The pendant has a swastika symbol in the center.